Tonight, Prada returned to The Piano Factory, the Italian fashion house’s New York headquarters on the West Side of Manhattan, for its Resort 2020 show. Staging a characteristically idiosyncratic production, with sculptural lounge seating and bubblegum pink pillars anchoring the sweet-but-not-too-sweet milieu, designer Miuccia Prada served up, in her words, “seditious simplicity.” There were boxy plaid suits, floral print matching sets, and billowy white frocks with delicate stitch embroidery. Accessories, which ran the gamut from sequin palette skinny scarves to frilly socks layered underneath high-top sneakers and patent leather Mary Jane heels, added that extra zing of haute-kitsch.
There was a similar playful polish on the beauty front. While last season, the skunky, heinously chic ‘90s highlights captured most of the attention, this time around the eyes had it. “We experimented with color in an understated manner,” explained makeup artist Pat McGrath, who painted abstract swathes of neon color on the outer corners of the eyes in shades of fuchsia, crimson, tangerine, and sky blue. Each model’s color assignment was an off-the-cuff decision, with show opener Kyla Ramsey and Gigi Hadid each sporting bolts of citrus orange, while Rebecca Longendyke’s ice blue gaze was splotched with hot pink. And the way McGrath saw it, this season’s “modern, eclectic, and individual woman,” needed a cool juxtaposition. So she offset the jolts of color with bare complexions, save for dabs of the Skin Fetish Highlighter and Balm Duo on the cheeks and mouth.
Smoothing the majority of girls’ hair before mussing it up with some lived-in grit courtesy of Redken Windblown 05 Dry Texturizing Hairspray, backstage pro Guido Palau sought to create a sense of real world wearability. The show’s trio of hairstyles—a traditional low ponytail, side ponytail slung over one shoulder, and tall top knot—were practical but quickly elevated with the slapdash fastening of a leather cuff slide secured with a long sleek pin at the base. Skewing more sophisticated than the twinkling baubles omnipresent on the street style scene, the white, tan, and red cuffs are alluringly pared-down, and seem destined to become fashion’s next must-have hair accessory. “There’s an ease to these looks,” explained Palau in between adding hair extensions to Hadid’s dirty blonde lengths to elongate her ponytail. “It’s almost how a girl would do her own hair.” Almostbeing the key word, because it’s Mrs. Prada’s world—and things aren’t quite that simple.